Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). In a small nonreactive saucepan, combine the wine, shallots, thyme, pepper, and sugar. Bring to a boil, then simmer over medium heat until the wine is reduced by half. Transfer to a bowl and let cool. Stir in the hazelnut oil.
Place the cheese in a small baking dish that you’re proud to bring to the table, and cover it with the shallot mixture. Bake for 4 to 5 minutes, or until slightly melted. Serve with the hazelnuts and toast.
When the Époisses comes out of the oven, you can flambé it with 1 tablespoon marc or a good brandy. And if you do, be careful. It is your responsibility and not ours if your date’s rayon dress catches fire.