Gougères

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Line three large baking sheets with nonstick baking mats, such as Silpats, or parchment paper. Dip a 1 1/2-inch round cookie cutter in flour, and mark circles about 1 inch apart on the prepared sheets; set aside.

In a medium saucepan, combine 1 cup water with the butter, salt, sugar, paprika, pepper, and nutmeg over medium-high heat. Bring mixture to a boil, and immediately remove from heat. Using a wooden spoon, add flour, stirring vigorously, until flour is no longer visible. Return pan to medium-high heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until mixture pulls away from the sides of the pan and forms a film on the bottom, about 4 minutes. Stir in both cheeses and the herbs, and mix just until the cheese is melted.

Transfer mixture to the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix on low speed until slightly cooled, about 1 minute. Add 3 eggs, one at a time, mixing on medium speed until incorporated. Lightly beat the last egg, and add a little at a time until the batter is smooth and shiny. Test the batter by touching it with your finger and lifting—it should form a soft peak. If a soft peak does not form, the batter needs more egg. If you have added all the egg and the batter still won’t form a soft peak, add the egg white, a little at a time, until it does.