Individual Chocolate Soufflés

Prepare oven and dishes Heat oven to 400°F, with rack in lower third. Do not open oven door until ready to bake. Place five 10-ounce ramekins on a rimmed baking sheet. Brush the inside of the ramekins with melted butter. Dust with sugar and tap out excess. Wrap a strip of parchment paper around each ramekin so that parchment extends 2 inches above the rim, and secure with kitchen twine (or tape). Chill in freezer at least 15 minutes.

Melt chocolates Bring about 2 inches of water to a simmer in a medium saucepan. Melt chocolates in a large heatproof bowl set over the simmering water (the bowl should not touch the water, since the slightest drop of condensation can cause the chocolate to seize, or harden). Stir chocolates until smooth.

Make batter Scald the milk (heat it until it’s just about to simmer) in a saucepan over medium heat; remove from heat. Combine sugar and yolks in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment; beat on high speed until pale, about 4 minutes. On low speed, beat in flour. Beat in half the hot milk, ladling it in a little at a time (this is called tempering and prevents the yolks from scrambling). Whisk this mixture into remaining hot milk in pan. Bring to a simmer and cook, whisking, until thickened, about 2 minutes. Pour into melted chocolate, stirring to combine, then stir in vanilla and salt. Let cool 10 minutes.