Cooked Semi-Polished Rice (Haiga Mai)

As already noted, great care must be taken when washing partially polished rice to avoid dislodging the nutrient-rich germ. Place the rice in a deep bowl and pour in enough cool tap water just to cover the grains. Using your fingertips in gentle swirling, swishing motions, rinse the grains for about 15 seconds. With slightly scooping motions, gently lift the grains once or twice, to ensure that water flows freely around each grain. Drain the rice. Use your hand or a fine-mesh strainer to hold back the rice as you drain off the water. Some people find it useful to line their strainer with fine-woven cloth (the Japanese use sarashi) or a clean, low-lint kitchen towel. Carefully transfer the rice to a pot or rice-cooker bowl.

Place the washed and drained rice in a sturdy, straight-sided pot. A 2- or 3-quart size will work well for the two smaller quantities, and a 4- to 6-quart pot is appropriate for the larger amount. Add the water. Ideally, the rice should sit in its measured water for 10 minutes before cooking, but if you are pressed for time, add a few extra drops of water and cook right away. Cover the pot with a tight-fitting lid.

Bring the water to a rolling boil over high heat. You will hear bubbling noises and see the lid begin to dance after several minutes. An onomatopoeic folk jingle that describes the cooking of rice refers to this bubbling stage as choro choro. Reduce the heat and continue to cook until the water is absorbed (about 5 minutes). You will know this point has been reached when you hear a low hissing sound (the folk jingle calls this naka pappa). If it is difficult to rely on the sound of the cooking and you must check visually on progress along the way, peek quickly, replacing the lid immediately.