XO Sauce

In a medium pot, bring a steamer setup to a rapid simmer over medium-high heat. Add ¾ cup dried scallops, ⅓ cup dried shrimp, and ⅓ cup dried anchovies to a small steaming tray. Carefully lower the steaming tray onto the steaming rack. Cover and steam the dried seafood until soft, 10–15 minutes. Once the seafood has softened, remove the tray from the steamer setup and set the seafood aside to cool.

Add the cooled seafood to a food processor and pulse until the scallops are shredded into skinny strands and the shrimp and anchovies look like they have been coarsely chopped. Set the seafood aside.

In a small pot over low heat, combine 3 slices thick-cut bacon, cut into small dice, and 2 Tbsp. water and cook, stirring occasionally, until the bacon renders most of its fat and begins to brown and crisp up along the edges and the water has evaporated, about 10 minutes. Raise the heat to medium-high, add 1 small shallot, minced, 8 garlic cloves, minced, and 1 (2-inch) piece ginger, minced, and sweat them in the oil, stirring often to prevent any browning, until fragrant and soft, about 5 minutes. Add the reserved seafood, 3 Tbsp. Shaoxing wine, 1 Tbsp. toasted white sesame seeds, 1 Tbsp. gochugaru (Korean chile flakes), 1 Tbsp. toasted sesame oil, 1 Tbsp. light soy sauce, 2 tsp. fennel seeds, 1½ tsp. sugar, 1½ tsp. MSG, and 1½ tsp. fish sauce and stir with a spoon until well mixed, scraping to prevent sticking.